This article was contributed by customer, Aiden.

When news and pictures of the new Evolution X was out, I was immediately sold. Specifications of the new 4B11, technical info of the twin clutch SST and the sheer looks and presence of the car was enough to make me sell off the Evo 9 and put a deposit down for the Evo X.  As much as I was sad to see my beloved Evo 9 go to the hands of another man, the very next day, I had already placed a deposit for a brand new 2009 Evo X SST.

As with most parallel importers, I too encountered the usual shipment delays and awaited for 4 months before the car was sitting at my door.  However, after staring and drooling at it for a while, I hopped in and took it for a spin around the block.  All grievances were put to rest.  I was thrilled by its sheer torque and power.  The car is absolutely amazing!  Its everything I thought it would be.

Now, like all typical petrol heads, many ideas came into mind.  I wanted to increase the power of the car, however my first priority was to improve the handling and stopping prowess of the car.  Weighing in at just under 1500kgs, the Evo X is anything but a lightweight contender.  Yes, the factory brembos are acceptable, however I wanted more stopping power, a lot more.  Also, the car sits far too high , and I needed to dump this bad boy to its knees.

I made a call to Joel and met up with him.  We decided to go for something out of the ordinary, 1 of Wilwood’s most massive callipers in their range, the TC6.  These callipers were meant for larger and heavier vehicles like the Humvee’s and Ford F150 trucks, therefore the Evo X would be peanuts in weight compared to these vehicles.  Paired with a set of Dynapro 4 pots to the rears, we were pretty confident that the Evo X would be able to stop when commanded to.  Only downside to the story at this point, lead time for the brakes to arrive was 3 weeks…. bugger.

Whilst awaiting for the brakes to arrive, something else had to be done (to cure my itch).  In the handling department, a set of JIC Magic RS Coilovers were sourced from Uber Garage and installed.  With the car lower and less roll in the corners, I was now more confident than ever with the car.  Not to mention, the car now looks heaps meaner.  I wanted to give the car a RWD type look, thus a set of Works rims were sourced.

I decided to use a set of 18×9.5” XT7’s for the fronts and a set of deep dished 18×10 XD9’s on the rears.  All I can say, I couldn’t have been more satisfied…

The weeks flew by and one fine day I received a call from Joel saying that my brakes have arrived!  Immediately, I flew down to his office to pick up 2 big Wilwood boxes.  Upon inspection, all I could say was that the calipers were one of the biggest I have ever seen!!!  In one word… WOW!  Immediately we went down to Uber Garage to strip off the stock brembos and test fit the new Wilwoods.  We needed to custom make brackets for the calipers as there were none off the shelves.  We used a “template” bracket, took some measurements and off to the CNC shop we went to get the brackets made up.

It took us 3 attempts (meaning stripping the brakes, and running to and fro from the CNC Shop) to get the front and rear brackets right so that the callipers would sit in the right position of the rotors.  IT SURE WAS A LOT OF WORK MAN!!  Kudos to all the mechanics who made this possible.

Alas, the brakes were finally on the car!  Paired with a set of Goodridge Braided Brake Lines, and armed with Motul RBF 600 brake fluid in its veins, I was ready to take it out for a spin.

The results?  Well, the car definitely brakes better than the stock brembos. WAY WAY BETTER… It feels as though my car’s got a parachute at the rear when I lightly depress my brake pedal, the clamping load on the rotors is simply extraordinary, and the car looks meaner and more aggressive with the massive brakes….

The verdict?  Although it was a long and painful wait, and the amount of time and effort spent pulling the brakes in and out and all that running around, I would say that it was all well worth the effort!!!!

The Evo is still undergoing surgery every now and then when I have the time. (And the money!!) Stay tuned to this blog for all further updates!!!

Firstly, I have to apologize for the long hiatus and sporadic updates on the blog.  We have been really busy in the past few months.  Setting up a new shop, moving all the cars, purchasing new equipments, learning how to operate them, “inaugurating” new staff, having a lot more customers fixing their cars too during this period.

However, we can haughtily say that the  strenuous and wearisome activities are over for now!  Definitely well worth it!!  We now have a shop space of over 10,000 sq ft to fix the cars and also a nice showroom and lounge area for dedicated customer’s relaxation.  Keep a lookout for a peek of the shop in 1 of the upcoming post.

Anyway, we have been playing around with a R35 GTR lately and found out its relatively easy to make power with its VR38DETT powerplant.  Even the ECU has already been cracked and we are able to tune it!!

Here is a picture of the stock ECU

The inside of it

We did all our testing on a complete stock car.  It had the factory air filter, factory exhaust, catalytic converters, etc.

The stock  horsepower is shown as in the GREEN line.  That was the base run we did with the car and we got just shy of 400whp.  Very accurate and in line with Nissan’s claim of 480bhp.  This dyno is a Mainline Dyno and reads a little lower than the Dynapack that we are used to seeing.  This same dyno was also used in the Australian Auto Salon, check out this link.

The middle BLUE line depicts the horsepower right after the reflash.  Nothing else was done to the car.  Basically as with most turbo cars, horsepower is easily gained with putting up a higher boost number.  We tweaked the boost response, DBW throttle response, variable cam timing, remove speed limiter, upped the rev limiter and a few other settings.  We managed to gain a huge amount of torque and got a fatter mid range.

The final and topmost RED line was after we did a few other basic things to the car.  Air filter kits, test Pipes, free flowing exhaust system.  We got a BIG spike in power everywhere.  Even the power curve after 5,000 rpm is slightly altered.  This engine definitely has a lot of potential, it will not be long before we see some R35s cross the 1,000bhp mark!

If you are looking to do nothing but an air filter kit for your Evo X, the Agency Power air filter kit has to be the answer to your mods.

Just a simple 30 minutes job, and voila, 16WHP gains at 5,300rpm!!

The dyno graph says it all!

After dyno testing a variety of intakes, we have realized that the K20A in the FD2 actually works very well with an intake with a relatively short pipe.  Something that uses the factory rubber tubing actually works pretty well too.

 However, heat soak is always an issue with the filter situated in the engine bay.  We had to combat that head on, or else power gains would be compromised.  So, what better way to do that than to route cool air from outside the car to the air filter.

On separate occasions, we tested with different air ducts.  The first one was the M&M intake duct, which is situated behind the left bumper air dam.  It is also interesting to note that recently, Toda Racing has also launched an air duct that has an uncannily similar design.

Here is a picture that had the M&M air duct installed.

It sits behind the factory brake air duct, and connects up to the airbox via a snorkle that forms part of the original resonator system.

Driving impression was that it definitely works better than without any ducting.

 Now, we had another one that we wanted to test.  This time round, it is from Backyard Special

Initial observation of the product was that it was of a lesser quality compared to the M&M, which had a nice FRP gel coated finish.  In fact, the piece i had where the 2 separate fibreglass pieces butts were met, besides having the normal faint line, it had a crack!  But I guess, functionality wise, it will work just as well (regardless of fibreglass finish). 

This air duct gets the cool air from the large front air dam and gets routed towards the airbox in a more direct path.  It also has a larger catchment surface area and should be more efficient.

Here are some pictures of the installed product

Front view

Side view

Installed with crash bar back in place

My observations on it were that it’s catchment area is a little too big.  Such that it actually covers a small part of the A/C condenser and radiator.  Yes, I want cool air, but I am unwilling to sacrifice any cooling efficiency.  It also hides the ambient air temp sensor (right behind bumper) from a direct stream of air.

I will be improvising on the design to incorporate some of my observations and test it out on the car again to see how it works.  Do come back and check it out soon.

This article was contributed by Yak, a close friend and worthy track exponent.

The EG K20 is going nowhere. Joel is getting faster and faster. I need to move on. Having tracked RWD, FWD, maybe it is time to find out how 4WD goes.

One day, a friend gave me a call and told me about the following trackcar for sale.

Excellent!!! A real SPEC C for track! The EGK20 is sold for good money and with those money, I bought it. However, being absolutly broke now, I have to do it up the TAM (tight ass mutha) way. Do it as up as cheap as possible and only when I can afford it.

The SPEC C comes stock standard. Here are some good things why it can potentially make a good trackcar:

Sexy DCCD

No sound deadener and cool 12L water spray tank

It’s time to strip it. No sound deadener, no wonder road Spec Cs are freaking noisy. Anyway, I save effort. No need to scrap till crazy.

I got these boys to fabricate an exhaust 3” from CAT back. Sounds really sexy right after

Some sexy cars the boys from X Factory are doing

And I got all these parts from my WRX Wagon to go into my trackcar. The Wagon is relegated to fetching Daryl around now.

13 point Carbing Rollcage

Prodrive Coilovers

Cusco Brake Stopper, F/R Strut Brace, AEM Water Injection Kit, Project U 999 Pads, F/R Cusco AntiRoll bars, Braided Hoses. That’s all I can afford now.

And semislicks. Unfortunately, they are more than 3 years old. The story is, always check before buying anything used. Well, obviously I did not

With everything fitted, I hit the track. 2.39s on her first outing, not bad for a stock spec C. This is just the start, watch this space for more.

As this FD2 is still rather new, not that many companies are making suspension that are tried and tested.  In all honesty, I would rather opt for a European brand suspension which I am familiar with.  But my regular supplier who supplies to some of the European race team still does not have anything available.  I guess an off the shelf part will suffice for now.  Pretty sure it will be better than the stock suspension.

 Here are some pictures, enjoy!

RG box of goodies

Top mount and suspension components

Bestex Springs

F & R Spring rates as tested by factory

After the arrival of the FD2 type R, we got all excited and everyday has been an adventure going through our catalogues.  Suddenly we have all become kids in a candy store.  If we have been given a blank sheet on how we can modify the FD2, or what parts we can choose to buy.  I am sure we are going to tick all the boxes that the menu offers.  Pretty much like our weekly Dim Sum session at Asia Grand.  Prawn dumplings, Peking Ducks, Zhar Leong!

Anyway, since we were going through the available catalogues, we just thought we’d order whatever Cusco had to offer for handling.  Basically, whatever additional braces that were available were ordered.  I have to say that I am really glad with our Japanese supplier who delivered them in a timely order.  I guess it is always good to have your supplier’s dabbling in the same car as you!

The goods

Please do not ask me which bar is for what part of the car, i have not figured them all out yet.

One bar that i managed to figure out (and fitted) for sure!

Oh, and you might realize that there is a K&N air filter kit fitted.  That was fitted in a bid to test how the short ram vs cold air intake will work with this engine.  We also had a temperature sensor fitted within the heat shield to log temperatures on hot day, cooler temperatures, and when the car was on the move with a proper cool air scoop routed to the filter.  This damn filter is loud!  Really screams when VTEC kicks in, and the car pulls hard.  I will try to get a video of this so you can hear the aural pleasures for yourself.

We also had some bucket seats that came in.

New batch from Bride.  Very updated FIA production label.

Removal of Steering wheel airbag.  Lightweight is important!  Or perhaps, life is less important.

MOMO Champion, my favourite aftermarket wheel.  Lots of red stitches, just like the type R wheel.

And a little Honda Access Type R Phone sling for the purist in me.

finally!  the arrival of our new test mule.  with all the noise going on about the new civic FD2, we couldn’t ignore it further.  is it as good as all the reviews made it out to be??

we always hear that the car is raw, and noisy.  but after collection of the car, it isn’t that bad.  in fact, it is pretty much a good road going car.  soft suspension, etc etc.  must be too many moons of driving on bilsteins, DMSes & ohlins suspensions that made me immune to jaring rides.  suddenly, driving the FD2, is akin to sitting in the toyota crown.

 so, as usual, i have to do something stupid, have to test out when i will run out of gas!

 i drove it till the fuel gauge went complete blank!  and yet i still could drive the car… i am kind of busy this week, have not had time to test how many kays i can do before i hit rock bottom.  someday, i will do it; i.e. being stupidier.

so first few mods to do would be to settle the alignment and sort out the standard brakes.

 putting the car on the alignment machine tells us that it is way out.  we got weird alignment settings all around!  it was like honda japan did not bother to adjust the alignment to within spec as they had to produce as many type Rs as possible for the large demand all around the world!  we actually got -3 degree of camber on the rear L, and -1 on rear R.  Farrr Outtt!  we did not expect this from honda… or maybe the car was being throw around in handbrake turns and clipped a couple kerbs before delivery.

anyway, nothing a few suspension geometry components cannot solve

2 camber bolts for the front, 1 on each hole of the knuckle.  till we get hold of an offset bolt hole suspension lower casing and camber/castor adjustment strut top mounting, i guess this would suffice.

skunk2 rear camber arms, a cheap solution for the rear camber adjustments.  love the gold color here!

for the brake pads, we wanted to put on a set of the new ferodo DS1.11 after hearing them touting about its new siloxane technology, blah blah.  but it could not come in time, so we just settled for the regular DS2500 for a combination of road and track use. 

we put these in; both F & R, and there was already a marked improvement over brake feel.  it has consistent brake feel throughout its operating temperatures and good modulation.  and LOTS OF DUST!

Stay tuned, we will be updating the mods we did on this car and also how it performs at the track.

We have recently just acquired a FD2 civic type R to do some testing.  this will be an ongoing project car, with very sensible modifications that will make it comfortable enough for street driving and quick enough for track.

Here is a short video clip we made after we got the car for about 4 days?!

hope you enjoyed it.

Sometimes, we really wish that we can have a lot of time on our hands so that we can build a car to a spec we really love.

 From the chassis, to the exterior, to the engine, suspension components, etc.. 

This fine example of an EG6 was found strictly for that purpose.  The body was straight, with no major accidents.  Engine was in bad shape (so that we can squeeze the ex owner for a good price).  Interior was non-existent (so we can squeeze EVEN more for a cheap price).  Well, the list goes on… but since we are going to rebuild it anyhow, it didn’t matter how bad the car was.

OK OK, i guess the car is not in that bad shape.

Here, let us ”showcase” what we have done this far.

we needed to put the car on a diet… so first thing to go was the sunroof.

here, we purchased a nice piece of the roof without the sunroof.

please enjoy my EG6 cabrio, limited edition 

and another one here, with the top, on its way down

whole interior was stripped and all the sound deadening material removed.  this took us a good 2-3 weekends.

yes yes, we are wimps, and we need fans.

yanking out all the unwanted wires, like the ABS, VSC, TRC, DSG, SST, we don’t want all of that!  (don’t you agree this EG6 is way cool???)

after all the sound deadening material and waterproof sealant were scrapped off, it was time for master craftsman Mr Lye from Lye Designs to do some stitch welding to stiffen things up a little.  we would like to put in a nice roll cage in there…. but.. we will see, how to get around our annual inspection.

REALLY NICE AND CLEAN RIGHT?

fat ass at work, trying to talk the engine into walking itself out of the engine bay

and very importantly… how long we took to get to this point?

just have a look at these…